The Buttermere valley and lake seen from high on the fells with fields on the valley floor

The Buttermere valley

The only valley in Cumbria with three lakes in it — Buttermere, Crummock Water and Loweswater — reached from Keswick over the Honister Pass.

Over Honister

It is only a short journey from Borrowdale over the dramatic Honister Pass, with its slate quarries, mines and exhibition, into the lovely valley containing the lakes of Buttermere, Crummock Water and Loweswater.

The lake of Buttermere, set in its amphitheatre of mountains, is a tranquil scene made more dramatic by the play of light and shade in the narrow valley — the low-level four-mile walk round it is a delight, and is described on the Buttermere lake page.

Buttermere lying still with gorse in flower along the near shore and fells reflected
A shingle beach curving into the lake below steep bracken-covered fells
Copper bracken on the fellside above the lake with snow on the far tops

Three lakes, and once there were two

The Buttermere valley is the only valley in Cumbria possessing three lakes. Buttermere, Crummock Water and Loweswater occupy the long glaciated valley leading north and west towards Cockermouth and the coast.

Buttermere and Crummock Water were originally one large lake. They are separated now by a spread of material brought down by the mountain streams over thousands of years — you can walk across it in a few minutes, between one lake and the next.

The much larger Crummock Water is closely followed by the road, with many vantage points looking towards the dramatic slopes of Mellbreak. About a mile up Scale Beck, which flows into Crummock, is Scale Force — the highest waterfall in England, with a drop of 120 feet.

A fellside covered in bluebells and gorse looking up the valley to the high fells

Rannerdale in May

In early to mid May the valley of Rannerdale turns blue, covered in bluebells. There are two roadside car parks at Cinderdale Common on the B5289 between Lorton and Buttermere, just at the foot of the valley.

Be sure to get there early during this period, as it is very popular. Combine the bluebells with a stroll along the shore of Crummock Water, or — for a longer walk — the circular route to the summit of Rannerdale Knotts, a small fell with great views over the valley and its lakes.

Loweswater and Lorton

Small and picturesque settlements are scattered across the widening valley, where the water from the third lake passes through the hamlet of Loweswater, which shares its name.

High and Low Lorton combine to make the first large village in the valley, at the foot of the Whinlatter Pass leading over to Thornthwaite and Keswick, where the ground opens out into the broad Lorton Vale. It is a very traditional settlement in a lovely location, and justly popular for its amenities — there is more about it on the Buttermere and Lorton village page.

The other valleys